Fiona Sims visits three thriving gastro pubs where wine plays a major role

The Goose at Britwell Salome in Oxfordshire became the sixth pub to win a Michelin star this year. And pubs scooped 12 of the 27 new Bib Gourmands awarded to eateries offering "good food at moderate prices". Gastro pub food is on a roll, but what of their wineofferings? Do their lists stand up to the praise heaped upon the food?

Let's look at the Goose. Chef Michael North oversees everything, right down to the wine list. He offers 100 wines from all over the world, and 20 by the glass. The list is split by country, and arranged by price. All good, so far.

Best-selling white wine is a South African Sauvignon Blanc from Buitenverwachting (£18.50) and best-selling red is a Rioja from Conde de Valdemar (£29.50). Yes, you did read that right ­ £29.50. The Rioja is also offered by the glass at £7.50 for 175ml. They take their wine seriously in Britwell Salome.

And it's not just because there's foie gras on the menu inciting higher spends on wine. The Goose attracts a fair few wine lovers, from the ladies-who-lunch book group, to local farmers who meet up regularly just to drink wine.

And the significantly higher-than-average spend is not just because North has chosen wines that are pricier ­ 30 bottles are less than £20 and another 40 are under £30. Excellent news, then.

I have just one gripe ­ North uses one main supplier, Berkmann Wine Cellars, with the odd bottle plucked from another supplier, which goes on the list as a special ­ "to give our regulars something different," he explains.

Don't get me wrong, he's happy with his supplier, but limiting yourself to just one isn't ideal. While the biggest suppliers boast lengthy lists, no-one is brilliant in allcategories.

Using at least two suppliers not only means a potentially better list, it keeps both suppliers on their toes. Of course, using eight suppliers for a basic list is just not practical and quite unnecessary, so how many suppliers you end up with will depend on the type of list that you want.

The Peasant in London's Clerkenwell uses six suppliers for its 40-bin list. Co-owner Gregory Wright reckons he's got it about right. "The list is still manageable but it allows usto offer a real cross section of quality wines," he declares.

The Peasant is pretty much my ideal gastro pub. After first opening in 1993 (soon after gastro pub landmark, the Eagle), it was snapped up by Wright and his brother Patrick five years ago. They gave it an overhaul and it has been picking up awards ever since.

They searched out the wines specifically to go with the food, finding wines that customers wouldn't see on the high street, mixing up more familiar varieties with "something a bit different," keeping the list short but nicely formed.

A Bonarda Tempranillo blend (La Agricola Villa Vieja, Mendoza, £15.50/£3.80 175ml) sits next to a Veneto Merlot (Cortegiara, £16/£3.90); while Aussie Riesling from Mount Langhi Ghiran (£23) cosies up to an Albariño from Abadia del Campio (£24).

It's a formula that's working well for them, fine-tuned after five years in the gastro-pub business. "Customers are pretty adventurous if you give them the chance," says Wright.

Mark van der Goot is finding out just how adventurous his customers can be. The owner of London's latest gastro pub sensation ­ the Greyhound in Battersea High Street, hasvirtually emptied the contents of his personal wine collection (he used to be a sommelier) on to the list, sat back and watched sales soar.

It helps that the wine trade have flocked, already aware of van der Goot's reputation, pushing up his average spend way abovethe norm. It also helps to have two lists ­ the regular wine list crammed with expertlychosen goodies, and the Fine and Rare list, the product of his many years of collecting, with super modest mark-ups (he slaps just £20 on each bottle over £35 ­ 1982 Pétrus at £1750, anyone?).

OK, so this is van der Goot's thing. We're not suggesting anybody attempt this dream of a list with more than 500 wines, 20 available by the glass, gleaned from more than 20 wine suppliers, which can be matched withwhatever you order by any of the staff. We're just showing you what's out there, why we're getting excited, and what you should bear in mind when you're putting together yourgastro-pub wine list.