In the first of a new series celebrating classic pub dishes, Richard Fox looks at new ideas for pies
The pie is to food what the internal combustion engine is to travel. It has been central to our eating habits since recipes began. It has spread its culinary wings to appear everywhere from nursery rhymes and national competitions to catchphrases.
So, who did "eat all the pies"?
Well, 11th century Londoners certainly got their fill: street food stalls on the London riverbank were serving up a multitude of different styles and flavours. Open 24/7, this was 12th-century fast food to make the likes of McDonalds and KFC look positively prehistoric. By 1280, this street food had expanded from the dock areas into St Paul's before achieving recognised "district" status around Ironmonger Lane in the latter part of the 14th century. We could do a lot worse than take on board the wealth of flavours that marked out these historic recipes to capitalise on what is truly food of the people. And what better place to embrace that concept than the great British pub?
It's no coincidence that the pie has been so historically successful as food for eating out. It's an entire meal baked in one go, in one ready-portioned package. There are no fiddly finishing flourishes required for service. Simply whack it in the oven, heat through and serve. In the case of the Shepherd's, Cumberland or Cottage variety, it can combine meat, potato and two veg, rendering any accompaniments redundant.
The other marvellous thing about pie making is that you can tailor them to suit your establishment. They can virtually become the signature of your pub ethos, with the dish making a statement about your pub: Rustic and wholesome; voluminous and loud; experimental or contemporary.
Ingredients and prep time will reflect gastronomic aspirations, but value for money remains constant. Thus, a shepherd's pie may be a rapidly-assembled base of value priced mince, a slug of tomato ketchup, some dried herbs, water and a stock cube topped with a basic mash potato. Or it could consist of grass-fed lamb, a homemade chicken jus, fresh herbs and spices, a slug of fine wine and a silky, butter-rich mash. Both will be tasty, both can be value for money - even with a £5 price differential - and both reflect the ethos of the pub without judgement on quality.
The pie is also a perfect way to use up trimmings and leftovers, thereby reducing wastage and directly increasing gross profit.
If whole sides of salmon are bought in for fillets, then the trimmings at the tail end and the sides are perfect for a creamy fish pie, while cheap cuts of meat which require long, slow cooking are perfect for rich winter flavours. In a nutshell - or perhaps pastry case - what goes in after this is as wide as your imagination.
Another secret is to think outside the box. Virtually any dish can be adapted for the pie treatment: curry, casserole, roast, even steak and chips. From local or national brews to exotic oriental herbs, a twist here and a turn there can give your pub a unique culinary offering - and one that could generate more gossip and interest than an extra-marital affair in Coronation Street.
Pieminister top tips
Bristol-based manufacturer Pieminister specialises in premium pies blending a British favourite with global influences. The company's director, Jonathan Simon, offers chefs some top tips on creating the perfect pub dish:
Adapt your pie recipe
"As far as a classic pub dish goes, the pie is as traditional as it gets. Now that a pie can come in so many different forms, it can fulfill numerous requirements from the vegetarian to the hardened carnivore, people who like hot spicy dishes to the traditionalists among us. We all have something to feed our desires with a pie."
Top ingredients are a creature comfort
"There is a certain familiarity with a pie. People feel comfortable with it, and when served on a cloud of fluffy mash and some mushy peas, it transforms into the ultimate comfort food. If chefs or pie makers use good ingredients and exciting recipes, then a pie can become a true masterpiece."
Keep fillings simple
"The fillings should be wholesome, with ingredients you can see, taste and smell, not the unrecognisable pulp often found in so many pies."
Perfect pastry
"The pastry should never be ignored as an integral and very important part of a good pie. At Pieminister we use two types of pastry, a short crust for the base and a suet for the top."
To pie for -
Fox's top-10 ideas
Rabbit and Leek Pie - Try adding a little fruity and hoppy English ale or Belgian abbey beer to the sauce base Steak and Kidney Pie (with suet pastry)- Substitute the kidney for sliced free-range sausages for a twist on the original Game Pie - Use pigeon bones to get extra flavour into your stock Shepherd's Pie - A splash of Worcester sauce makes all the difference
Pigeon Pie - Make a paté from the heart and livers and serve on the side on toast
Creamy Fish and Mussel Pie - Add a good slug of Belgian white beer to the cream for extra zest and herby flavour
Pork Pie (with hot water crust pastry) - Serve with a small bowl of pea purée, and little pots of wholegrain and Dijon mustard
Macaroni Cheese and Bacon Pie - Substitute the bacon for strands of boiled ham hock - or mushrooms for a veggie option
Steak and Oyster Pie - Serve with a free shot glass of stout on the side
Wild Mushroom, Roast Onion and Garlic Pie - Add a confit of shallots, flavoured with bay and thyme, in place of the onions
Easy as pie - pubs are crust full of ideas
Reach for the pie at Williams Arms
Devon pub the Williams Arms thrives on its reputation for high-quality pies with the pub selling hundreds of pastries each week.
"More than 30% of our orders are for pies," says head chef Anthony Williams. "They usually start out on the specials board but become so popular that it becomes very difficult to take them off."
Pies on the menu at the Braunton pub includes steak & Guinness, steak & venison, steak & chip and turkey & ham. All are around the £7 mark. Anthony - who recently won the "favourites" cook-off at the PubChef awards with his steak and chip pie - has also pioneered more novel creations including steak with sautéed kidney and Pernod, and is always experimenting with new ideas. "I'm keen to keep adding fresh recipes to the menu. We've also tried adding a twist to traditional pies by using herb or cheese pastry."
With a little thought, pies can also be adapted from winter warmers to summertime favourites according to Anthony. "Cold pies are great snacks in hot weather. I do a picnic pie filled with turkey stuffing and sausage meat wrapped in pastry."
For perfect pies, Anthony advises:
Make your own pastry. "Home-made pastry is essential for the perfect pie. I often have customers ask me for my recipe but can't reveal everything, as it's a closely guarded secret. My tips are to use butter instead of lard and add a bit of baking powder to help the pie rise."
Pack it full. "I don't believe in scrimping on the filling so make sure you use plenty of ingredients in each pie."
Keep it fresh. "I make a batch of pies fresh each morning. If you bake them early it gives the meat a chance to marinade in the sauce."
Source quality ingredients. "The pie's reputation has suffered because manufacturers have used poor ingredients. The key is using fine local produce as it benefits the final flavour. For our steak & Guinness pie, I always use chuck steak cuts."
Pie Sunday at the Apple Tree
Yorkshire pub the Apple Tree Inn is proving a popular place for Sunday worship as customers flock to sample its weekend pie night. Proprietor/chef TJ Drew launched the pie, peas and chips evening in April last year. "It took off straight away," he says. "I think people love to indulge in quality comfor