The Gun, Coldharbour, London
The Gun is an elegant, white gastro pub overlooking the decidedly non-elegant white elephant that is the Millennium Dome.The historic Grade-II listed building has been revived after being gutted by fire four years ago,and with experienced gastro operators Tom and Ed Martin at the helm, alongside head chef Scott Wade (formerly of London restaurants Mirabelle and Drones), expectations were high.
The menu mixes traditional British dishes with more exotic influences. Fish plays a big part, aided by the pub's proximity to Billingsgate Fish Market. Examples include poached salmon and haddock with organic potatoes, mussels and saffron broth (£13.50) from the main menu, and deep-fried whitebait with Gun tartare (£7) from the bar list. Specials include roast pigeon, with sautéed foie gras, sautéed carrots and sour cherry sauce (£20.50).
The pub is named after the cannon fired to celebrate the opening of the West India Docks in 1802, and Lord Nelson himself is said to have used the inn to romance his mistress, Lady Emma Hamilton. A huge painting of the Battle of Trafalgar hangs near the entrance, while other pictures give a nautical atmosphere. The sleek white walls and oak floorboards give an elegant finish to the 40-cover dining room,while the separate bar area, terrace, and snugs, suggest the Gun is as equally suited to a boozy afternoon as a meal.
Unfortunately, the food itself was slightly mixed. Although the steak in the Aberdeen Angus rib-eye steak with snails and skin-on fat chips (£15.50)was succulent, and the snails worked better than I imagined, the chips tasted undercooked and were a little hard on the inside, despite the crispy skin.The dessert also left me rather cold. The combination of the sweet caramelised pineapple with pepper (£4) was adventurous, but perhaps too outlandish for my more conventional tastes.The service was fairly quick and the staff were friendly. Overall the Gun has bags of character and is a welcome change from the rather soulless Docklands.
PubChef Rating (out of 10)
Ambience 9, Value for money 7,
Flavour factor 6, Overall Impression 7.5
BEERS: Shepherd Neame's Spitfire, Young's Ordinary and Adnams' Broadside.
MAIN COURSES: From £6 to £16.
WINES ON LIST: 47 reds, 45 whites, three rosés, eight Champagnes or sparkling, nine dessert, and 15 by the glass, including El Coto Rioja Crianza (Spain) and Curious Grape, Flint Dry (England).
ANOTHER THING: The main bar dates back more than 200 years, and the wording beneath the bar, such as "port" and "whisky", is listed.