Food File - Pub Review
The Walpole Arms Itteringham, Norfolk.
Cosy-comfy country gastro-pubs don't come more welcoming than the Walpole Arms. In an interesting variation on the celebrity chef phenomenon, the Walpole is run by television producer Richard Bryan who oversaw Masterchef for a decade and made Lloyd Grossman a household name (pictures of the Masterchef adorn the walls of the entrance to the 40-seat restaurant).
Diners can also eat in the Walpole's bar area - and, if it's unfussy you're looking for, it's to be recommended. The menu is eclectic. Starters, for example, include the rustic braised leg of rabbit with puy lentiles and salsa verde (£5.50) and Portuguese style fish and rice soup with mussels and prawns (£5.75).
Norfolk partridge served on the bone for £11) was a little bit on the dry side, while pastie of spinach, squash, courgette and fontina cheese (£8.95) was delicious and served in a portion size that would challenge a German shot putter to finish.
Beer-battered haddock with hand-cut chips and minted pea purée (£10.25) looked like an exception to the usual rule of thumb - pub batter is a disaster area. One terrific pleasure on the Wednesday evening I was there was an excellent pub quiz run by Bryan himself. Fast-paced, good variety of questions and, well, the best team won: mine. I'd love to go back - if I'm allowed after making off with the first prize.
PubChef Rating (out of 10) Ambiance: 9 Value for money: 8 Flavour factor: 7 Overall Impression: 7.5
