The Jolly Sportsman, Chapel Lane, East Chiltington, East Sussex.
STYLE: Informal yet refined. European mainstream cooking with a twist.
WHAT'S ON OFFER: Menus change daily and include a two or three course fixed price lunch as well as a comprehensive main menu. There is also a separate vegetarian menu with dishes available as either a starter or a main course. Starters from the main menu include: Game liver parfait, onion marmalade and toasted brioche (£5.85); baked eggs, black pudding and chorizo (£5.45); grilled scallop and roast red pepper linguine (£7.45). Main meals include: Aberdeen Angus ribeye Bourguignonne (£15.85); marinated rump of lamb, peas, beans and mint (£14.75) and roast Cornish gurnard fillet and scallops with capers and tomato (£14.25).
CHEERS!: If you're lucky enough not to be the elected driver to this rural retreat, then there is a long wine list to choose from including Champagne Cuvee Merret. Spoilt for choice? Then opt for one of the Wines of the Month, on this occasion, Western Australian. We tried the Omrah, an unoaked chardonnay from 2002 that was accurately described as having "great balance with a light body".
JUST DESSERTS: The puddings have a traditional feel to them, but with an elegance associated with impeccable presentation. They include: chestnut and orange charlotte; poached pear with vanilla ice cream and plum sauce and hot apple tart with calvados sauce.
DECOR: This cream-painted pub with sage green detail has a modern, stylish interior. The exterior's colour scheme is continued inside where there is both an informal restaurant area with potted palms and modern artwork for sale. There is a rustic bar and an open fire. The covered patio area is full of Tuscan charm.
AND ANOTHER THING: Dishes can be adapted to suit individual taste and half portions are available for children.
RECOMMENDED: The baked eggs, black pudding and chorizo. A brave combination where the flavours work well together. Try as a starter for £5.45.