Food file - Pub Review
Johnny Foley's Irish House O'Farrell Street, San Francisco, California.
They call this house "the ancient home of good times". And for Irish ex-pats, it's just that - a little piece of Eire in California, with enough atmosphere to suggest that Brendan Behan once supped there. Situated within yards of the glitzy retail temples that are so essentially US of A, the dark panelled hostelry has the look of a serious drinking den without the phoney glitz that is designed to attract tourists. In fact, it looks as though it had been shipped, lock, stock and barrel, from Grafton Street, Dublin.
Ancient ads for Tullamore Dew and Guinness adorned the walls and, mercifully, the piped music did not materialise in predictable diddly diddly style. The greeting from the young waitress was pleasant and courteous. "Which pint can I get you?" she asked. The choice was ample. Bass Ale, Guinness, Harp, Newcastle Brown and Stella Artois at $4.75 (£2.72), with Belgian Chimay also available for $6 a pint. Add Smirnoff Ice at $4 a bottle and you had several reminders of home.
The food was truly international. Grilled New York strip, a tempting steak, for $5.95 (plus the obligatory fries), and baked lasagne for $10.95. Or you could have Buffalo chicken wings or cottage pie topped with veg for $12.95. I opted for Foley's Classic Burger. Fresh ground chuck steak, with real flavour, grilled to order and $6.95. This was the best burger of many that I ate in the US. Tender, well cooked and with just a hint of charcoal, to give it flavour. Instead of chips I chose potato salad. This, alas, was disappointing, but the slice of Cheddar that topped the burger made up for it. So, all in all, it was a pretty tasty meal.
Johnny Foley's Irish House is a sane haven amid the glitzy, over-the-top hostelries in the City by the Bay. And long may it remain so.
Pub Chef rating (Marks out of 10) Ambience: 9 Value for money: 7 Overall impression: 7 Flavour Factor: 8 Total Price: $11.70 (£6.72).
