it up as a connoisseurs' delight Cognac is one of the world's most exciting and versatile spirits. Rarely has distilled wine been turned into such a stylish drink. Through the craftsmanship of the distiller, cooper and blender, a fine spirit emerges that can grace any table. The choice of grape is relatively unimportant. The key is to find a vine that yields wine with high acidity and little character. The Ugni Blanc, known in Italy as Trebbiano, and locally in Cognac as St Emilion (not to be confused with the Bordeaux district of the same name) is the main choice. The Cognac region lies 50 miles north of Bordeaux, covering a slightly sloping landscape and even taking in the islands on the Atlantic coast. Much of the coastal part is a playground for French holidaymakers. The soil has an important bearing on the final Cognac. The chalkiest district is known as Grande Champagne and yields the finest grapes, followed by Petite Champagne. A blend of these two districts with not less than half coming from the Grande Champagne is known as Fine Champagne. If your taste is more towards a fruity nutty style, look for the clay-chalk district of Borderies. Alternatively, if a light floral Cognac appeals, Fins Bois made around the town of Jarnac could be the choice. The wine has to be distilled during the winter months following the harvest. The traditional pot stills familiar to those who have visited Scotch malt distilleries are used. Most today are heated by natural gas instead of coal or wood. The distiller can make a real impact on the spirit. The lower the strength, the more intense the fruity character will be, as with Bisquit. Not only will such a Cognac make a vital addition to a sauce, fruit cakes and trifle, but accompanies cola well to make a delicious cocktail. Oak for maturing Cognac is part of the key to its success. Limousin oak is rich in tannin, which speeds the maturation. It is used by Remy Martin. Troncais wood from central France is tougher and yields less tannin, making it the preferred choice of Martell. In the damp cellars close to the Charente river, Cognac quietly ages. As the founder of his Cognac house, Richard Hennessy, put it: "We must let time penetrate what the present cannot". Today the three stars of basic Cognac has been replaced by the initials VS. It must be at least three years old, whilst VSOP (Very Superior Old Pale) has to a minimum five years of age. For a VSOP with character, look at A de Fussigny, made by Alain Royer, who branched out from the family Royer firm when the Japanese acquired the business. One attractive idea would be to offer a selection of Cognacs from the third tier of quality the XO. Hine, for example, buys from under 50 growers to make its smooth Antique XO Fine Champagne, which was first created in 1920 by Georges Hine. It shows spice, vanilla, leather and honey on the nose and a complex richness on taste. The original XO was devised by Hennessy in 1870 and uses stocks up to 30 years old. For enthusiasts, it could be compared with its Paradis Extra, which has a restrained yet rich intensity derived from blending Cognacs of 25 up to 130 years of age. To retain the character, offer pure bottled water, not tap water. Most will want to initially savour the delicacy of a fine Cognac at its bottled strength, which is usually 40%, but later may add water to release further qualities. At the top end, distillers market Cognacs in wonderful bottles which can make a talking point. Courvoisier's Erte uses the master of art deco to produce a series of illustrations associated with Cognac production. Frapin Extra contains Cognac produced on the Frapin estate and comes in a limited edition numbered crystal decanter. Its aromas suggest enticing cigar boxes. Remy Martin's Louis XIII is sold in a stunning Baccarat decanter whose contents is filled with a remarkable Grande Champagne old Cognac.
